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Installation for Stackable Patterns

Dry Stackable Patterns

With these patterns, you should work from the bottom up. There are no joints or gaps between these pieces of stone, the pieces stack directly on top of the pieces below, and tightly against the pieces next to it. Be sure to check your work often with a level. If you’ll be working with one of these dry stackable patterns, it is recommended you mix your mortar with a latex bonding agent, available from your supplier. Also, these stones should be laid in rows of pieces with the same height, so that when you start each row, you should have a flat level surface to work on.

  1. With some patterns, it’s a good idea to lightly etch guide lines into the scratch coat, using a 4′ level and a pencil.
  2. It’s always a good idea to size the stone up before you apply any mortar, just to make sure it will fit properly and look good next to the other pieces.
  3. To lay the stone, use a trowel to spread about a 1/2 inch layer of mortar to the back of the stone. Lay the stone against the wall, press and shake it gently into place.
  4. There are no special pieces for working on inside corners, just meet the two pieces together.
  5. Any power saw with a masonry blade will work. This cutting will be very dusty, so be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask and do all cutting outdoors. Other times you may want to break the stone to keep a more natural looking rough edge. You can use a nipper to trim small amounts off the stone, or the back of your masonry hammer to crack a piece in half.

Non-Dry Stackable Patterns

Whenever possible work from the top down to prevent cement from dripping on stones beneath. That is unless you’re working with one of our dry stackable patterns, which are designed to be laid from the bottom up.

  1. Size the stone up before you apply any mortar, just to make sure it will fit properly and look good next to the other pieces.
  2. To lay the stone, use a trowel to spread about a 1/2″ layer of mortar to the back of the stone. Lay the stone against the wall, press and shake it gently into place.
  3. There are no special pieces for working on inside corners, just meet the two pieces together.
  4. Any power saw with a masonry blade will work. This cutting will be very dusty, so be sure to wear safety glasses and a dust mask and do all cutting outdoors. Other times you may want to break the stone to keep a more natural looking rough edge. You can use a nipper to trim small amounts off the stone, or the back of your masonry hammer to crack a piece in half.
  5. Mix a batch of cement with 1 part masons cement and 2 parts sand.
  6. Cut about a 1/2″ hole in the tip of your grout bag. It’s best to start by cutting a smaller hole, and you can always cut more later, but if the hole is too big, the cement will drip out and stain the stone.
  7. Fill your grout bag about half full with the grout mixture.
  8. Twist the top end of the bag and squirt some grout back into the bucket. This will prevent air pockets from causing the grout to accidentally squirt out explosively.
  9. Keeping the top end of the bag twisted, gently squeeze the grout into the joints. Fill all the gaps between the stones with about a half inch layer of grout. The grout will tighten and seal up the area around the stone.
  10. Let the grout dry until it is firm but not solid. You want to be able to push on it without leaving fingerprints, but don’t let the grout turn gray or it will be very difficult to strike.
  11. We recommend using a hardwood stick such as oak for striking. Keep the sticks square by cutting the tops off of them if they get worn down.
  12. Striking the grout gives your project a finished look. Use your striking stick to scrape along the joints until the grout has a clean, even look to it.
  13. The grout should crumble away like sand. If it smears, or crumbles away in large chunks, that means the grout is still too wet.
  14. Finally, use your soft bristled brush to sweep the dust off the stone.